Da Village
160 Kms North-West of Leh is the Aryan Village Da - very close to
Batalik peak. Da village featured in Bhraman for the first time in
2001 and henceforth, it has been of immense tourist interest. This
article features experience of traveling to Da village very recently;
in August 2005.
We reached the Da village 160 kms from the city. The Leh-Srinagar
Highway goes till Khalse and then turns right towards Batalik. After
Batalik, the mountainous landscape becomes arid comes across in
different earth shades. Deep down the gorge a river roars away,
witnessing on its way small villages.
We crossed several army barracks on our way to enter Da village,
rising by steps to a paradise that lay ahead. It is believed that
many years ago, the people of the Dard sect (a descent of the Aryans)
had come from a region called Gilgit, to settle down here. The people
of this tribal sect are extremely primitive in nature and don not
conform to any societal norms. They however, were tried to be harnessed
by Buddhist leaders some centuries ago. However, they still maintain
a very primitive lifestyle and call themselves ‘Bonpa’
or ‘Drokpa’. The tale of their settling down in this
region is replete in their cultural songs and dances, folk lore
and word of mouth down the centuries.
Legend goes that 3 brothers of a particular family from Gilgit,
had established themselves by their good deeds, which invited frowns
from many. Soon they had to leave their place and came to Da village
for some rest. At that time Da village was not a proper habitat.
To ward off cold, they had used straw as shoe padding. Some part
of which fell on the ground and breathed in conducive weather to
grow up into healthy crops. Later they were pursued once again by
their enemies, but they came back and settled here after they witnessed
the delightful growth of crops in this place. This tale of valour
still goes around as word of mouth in the folk lore of the Drokpas.
We got down from our jeep and started up the steps, which marks
the entrance of the Da village. We soon came to a place which was
full of greenery. Mostly apricots have filled up the trees and lie
strewn on the ground. Apple and walnut trees are also found in abundance.
Among other vegetations, wild grapes and poplar could also be seen.
A little away lay farming grounds for tomato, turnip, cauliflower
etc. A villager came up to us and offered us some fruits.
As we rose up the steep incline, more and more verdant fields filled
our view. The whole place was thick with apricots. Farming lands
of the place were also surrounded by apricot trees. The whole landscape
in this part witness’s small water falls here and there. In
a word Da’s landscape is like paradise on earth. Men and women
carry fruit baskets at their back and these are filled with apricots.
We soon reached our accommodation here, Skiabapa, a place encompassed
with fruits and flowers. The place was small with 4-5 living rooms
and a dining room, the terrace replete with grapevines and apricot
trees.
Keeping our luggage, we went in for a tour, deeper into the village
where we saw cows and sheep flock at different places. Small stone
houses and greenery were all around. In this village the number
of animals a family possesses, determines its social position. We
saw girls working and playing acre after acre apricots were given
to dry in the sun. A prayer ring is located centrally in the village
and behind that is a monastery.
While little children were peeping from here and there, adults
smiled and greeted us saying ‘jule’. We soon saw two
girls coming and took their photographs after taking permission.
They were dressed in traditional Drokpa costumes carrying animal
skin in one hand and flowers in another. We exchanged communication
in Hindi as well as sign language. We soon went towards the monastery
and were let in by an aged woman. The idol was breathtaking with
light falling on its face from a window above and candle light lighting
it up from the base. We soon moved out to be faced with more apricots
being dried over the roof. An old shepherd was flocking sheep. He
was wearing a loose overall and a shoe with crossed strings, more
looking like a Greek man.
We came back to the guest house before darkness descended and met
with three Italian tourists. Later talking to the manager cum chef
cum hotel boy Suptu in broken Hindi, we came to know more about
the legends and lifestyle of the Drokpas as he himself was a Drokpa.
We finished our vegetarian dinner at 8.30 in the garden full of
apricots and grapevine ad went off to sleep immediately after. The
room ad a great view from two glass windows. The room could accommodate
5 individuals between the beds and the floor. As the outside scenery
was more visible from the floor bed, we chose to spend the rest
of the night there. The outside looked breathtaking.
The next morning we went across to the village once more, where
it was waking up from its slumber and was readying for the chores
of the day. Some were about to go out with their flocks of sheep,
some with cows and some were ready for the fields to collect apricots.
We noticed a letter box tied to the truck of a tree. Also noticeable
was the great influence of the Kargil war over here, as many house
doors were made of gun cartridge boxes and the men folks often wearing
army uniforms. We were told that littler boys had gone to provide
food to Indian soldiers regarding little for their own lives.
We kept drinking the beauty of the place for the last time. This
paradise set amidst the arid landscape is quite different from its
surroundings. Etched with abundant greenery, crops, flowers and
fruits, this whole valley is full of life. The extreme climate of
the surroundings has not been able to touch the place. In a word,
this place is abound with food, drinks and ayurvedic treatment and
other social norms making the Drokpas self sufficient in their own
ways. The people of this place are beautiful and are very cordial.
Da village is in fact quite different from any other place in Ladakh.
The drokpas are also spread over some other villages such as Hanu,
Biyama and other villages close by. However, the dialect, lifestyle
and social norms are quite different from Da village.
We soon turned to leave this beautiful place post a simple breakfast
of bread, jam, butter, omelets and apricots. Looking back at the
valley, the picture of a happy lifestyle hit us where people were
contended and ever smiling. We came across the same child of the
last evening and this time too he ran away after emptying his collection
of flowers and apricots in our hands.
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