The golden city in the Thar Desert of Rajasthan. The camel caravans from central Asia may be a thing of the past but you can make a camel-back journey from here to the undulating sand dunes of Sam, 42 kilometres from town.

The 11th century Jaisalmer Fort, perched atop the Trikuta Hill, is still a bustling old town while the new town has opted to sprawl around the foot hills. Hidden among the lanes and alleys of the Fort township are homes and hotels, shops, temples and people who still get dreamy-eyed while talking about their warrior-ancestors. Some proud homeowners will also show you the ancient weapons and coat of arms.

The elaborate Patwon ki Haveli lies at the end of a narrow lane. The latticework in marble appear to have a shimmering effect in the sunlight. Salim Singh ki Haveli and Nathmal ki Haveli are known for their marble and golden sandstone architecture. The Desert Culture Centre and Museum, the Jaisalmer Folklore Museum and the government museum are also worth a visit.

The old Jain temples at Lodhruva, 15 kilometres away have been rebuilt. 40 kilometres away is Khuri, a typical village tucked into the sand dunes. Although facilities at Khuri is quite basic, the place is full of genuine local colour, unlike Sam sand dunes. But foreigners must check first if they are allowed to Khuri. The Akal Wood Fossil Park, 16 kilometres, is the fossilised remains of a 180 million year old forest. .

In January/February, the Desert Festival is held at Sam, a three day extravaganza of camel races, folk music, puppetry, turban-tying competitions, local cuisine and a whopping dose of camaraderie. Festival Dates 6-8 February, 2001 and 25-27 February, 2002. .

BASICS
STD Code: 02992.

Airport: There are regular flights to Jodhpur, Mumbai and Delhi.

Rail: Jaisalmer is linked to Jodhpur by the daily operating Jodhpur Express.

Road: Major distances:
Jodhpur-- 295 kilometres
Bikaner-- 330 kilometres

Jaisalmer main bus stand is a little inconveniently located, near the train station. But the buses actually depart from a depot just behind the Hotel Neeraj. There are ordinary and deluxe buses to Jodhpur, Jaipur, Bikaner, Udaipur and Ajmer. Sometimes it is necessary to change buses enroute, so find out before getting the tickets.

Best time: November to March is pleasant. December to February is definitely the best time to go around. In winter, days can be hot but early mornings and nights are quite cold.

Accommodation: The budget and mid range hotels are located both within the Fort and the town area. The upmarket hotels are in the town area.
In the the Fort-- Hotel Simla (Tel: 53061), Hotel Chandra Niwas, Hotel Paradise (Tel: 52674), Hotel Suraj (Tel: 51623), Hotel Jaisal Castle (Tel: 52362).
In the town area-- Hotel Swastika (Tel: 52483), Hotel Pleasure (Tel: 52323), Hotel Renuka (Tel: 52757), Hotel Jaisal Palace (Tel: 52717), Hotel Nachana Haveli (Tel: 52110), Gorbandh Palace Hotel (Tel: 51511), Jawahar Niwas Palace (Tel: 52208), Rajasthan Tourism's Hotel Moomal (Tel: 52392).

At Khuri-- Khuri Guest House (Tel: 02992-75444), Mama's Guest House, Sodha Guest House.
At Sam-- Rajasthan Tourism's Hotel Sam Dhani (booking through Hotel Moomal, Jaisalmer).

Local transport: Bicycles are a cheap and convenient option to explore the many lanes. Bargain hard with autorickshaws. From the Gandhi Chowk area, you can hire jeeps to visit Khuri or Sam and come back on the same day.

Shopping: Embroidered and mirror-worked dress materials, tie and dye fabrics, rugs and blankets.

Contact: Rajasthan Tourism's Tourist Reception Centre (Tel: 02992-52406).